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The Secret of Barbering 



A SCIENCE 

FOR 



■ * • ••■••. 



Practical Use in Barbering, 



B\ B W. BOOKER 



I S8, 

■rtMT pWTWV 

- i ii 






-■ ■- - — 



Dedicated to My Deceased Mother, 

MRS. ANN AMELIA HOOKER. 



Bntered according to Act of Congress on June 23d, 1892. 



<V> 



V 









preface. 



♦O" N order to meet the enormous public demand and cue which becomes more and more press- 
ing, to have published a thorough scientific treatise on the art of barbering, this book has 
been issued. We have endeavored to supply this greal demand by a work containing sev- 
eral photographic casts illustrating all the various positions needed in honing, stropping, shaving and 
hair cutting. The following points of information arc those which the author has wrought out 
through a long life of tedious, though successful practice and hard study. The author, as a thor- 
oughly accomplished manipulator in every phase of barbering. fearlessly offers this work to the 
shrewdest criticism of the most efficient barbers in the land. He also guarantees that the barber 
apprentice will find its efficiency boundless; a work in which all the finer parts of the trade are 
treated in detail. 

Vet the reading matter is plain, simple, comprehensive, concise, to the point and exhaustive. 
It is further guaranteed the apprentice that by procuring a copy of this work, he will be aide to 
quire his trade at a cost incomparably small, both in time and money, and be benefited in an inesti- 
mably greater degree than he could possibly otherwise be. 

The student of "Tiik SSCKBT OF BARBERING " will always have an authentic reference 



near at hand for consultation until he becomes thoroughly proficient; whereas, on the other 
h^d the apprentice without the aid of "Thb Skckkp of B A rb B ri NG » is obhged to depend upou 
hLe^faSmemlry^nd to learn his trade after all by his o W n efforts, strugglmg through a 
Zr^7uZ^* bunders. Trusting that this work will be ol serv.ee to my country- 
men, I remain, Respectfully yours, 

Benjamin Woodson Booker. 




DESCRIPTION OF THE RAZOR 







/ 



J 



INTRODUCTORY TA1LK ON BARTERING 

♦BARBERS' poles have, according to custom, three colors, each of which has its meaning. The 

JD thTw°e e butf r S " l0WS: lD a " Cient tl,BeS ° r yea ™ ""* fr ° ra ** I— "hc„ 
there ere but few tf any surgeons proper, the barber combined with his own profession that 

of surgeon or "leech.- In diseases of almost every nature, the patient was bled; so in ordTto ;. ow 

whre surgery was praet.ced, the barber's pole came into use, a pole with the colors, red w hite and 

blue - the red represent^ the blood and predominating over the other colors and riving notice that 

asurgeon dwelt wtthtn. The white was to represent the nerves, and the blue, to repre ^ t ve n 




THE HAIR 



f*r* 8E NO WATER on the hair except when really necessary, which is only when one is under 
1 ' jroina the process of shampooing, or when cutting a pompadour. Water will utterly rum 
^* most° heads of hair, by removing the oil secreted by the oil glands, thus destroying the 

natural gloss, and leaving the hair rough, refractory and unattractive. Moreover, for the same reason 

it causes the hair to fall out. . ««. r „j 

There is only the motive of vanity to impel one to use water on the hair. Therefore my ad. 
monition is to comb the hair dry, training it the way it should go by frequent combing and brushing. 



GOOD WORK 



We admit that many a man is doing fairly good work in barbering, but a better knowledge 
of the various parts of barbering, would qualify him to do most excellent work. There are plenty 
of average men engaged in the tonsorial profession, as in all other kinds ol business, but what i* 
most needed are the excellent workmen. 

Give bartering your undivided attention until you master it. Not until then would it be ad- 
visable to -tu.lv on any other line of thought. It would be a great detriment to your own inte 
in reaching the highest attainment in barbering. One is not so apt to cut a subject when shaving if 



razors are kept sharp. When in good condition they cut the beard well; when dull they are likely 



Use your bast razors at all times, on all classes of trad,, and have none other than good ones- 
it pays m the end, at the beginning and all along. It is the bes. way to advertise. God! £*, in 

g Z 21 o r w ,T ipi ; lated ' r incentives to work ° f the h, ^ hest dass ' ^ *^ ^-. 

and wins out over all other forms of barbering. 



PREPARATORY WORK 



^HOSE who start out to acqu.re a knowledge of the art of barbering, should first have a pre- 

Vl* Z \ C ° Ursehef " re f e » teri »g into the real work of barbering. The preparatory part of 

the work comes >n the form of shaving necks, combing and dressing the hair, lathering and 

oTprScT 9 neCkS ' "" StrOPPi " g and h0 ' ling raZ ° rS - The «- two — d <*£ ^ ^ 



STROPPING AND HONING 

**TN STROPPING use an old razor that can not be utilized for shaving purposes, because a good 
" razor would soon becoma worthless, as the result of too much heat produced by friction from 
11 constant pissing of the blade overth: strop for the tim- necessary for one's practice. Tins ex- 
ercise in stropping should be kept up at intervals until such skill is attained that in turning the razor 
it may be passed over the strop with great velocity, without injuring the strop by cutting it. I hen 
when turning to the real work you may be able to apply the razor to the strop accurately and decis. 
ively It is well for me to state here the object of stropping. The object of stropp.ng is to get the 
benefit of the temper the blade contains, the greater portion of which is stored up in the thickest 
part of the blade, technically termed the back of the razor. Hence stropping becomes necessary in 
order to draw it down to the edge, which is done by the friction caused by stropp.ng. Then, when 
razors are laid aside ill the best possible condition, and allowed to remain for any reasonable time, 
they will not cut well until they are stropped again, for the simple reason that the temper travels back 
to the thickest part of the blade and leaves the thin edge comparatively without temper. Therefore 
the razor should nor he held too flat on the strop but tipped at an angle of about ten degrees in order 
to concentrate the temper right along the edge of the blade. This is the most essential point in 
stropping that of holding the razor obliquely upon the strop [See Fig. .], turn it upon its back, 
Stropping both sides alike [See Figs. . & 2 ] which represent the two strokes necessa ry '* ^"J*"* 
The first stroke rSee Fig. 1, drawing the razor towards you upon the strop, the back of the razor 
towards yoi No 2 represents the second stroke sending it from you.the back of the razor from you 
always turning it upon its back. 




rx) 




Fig 3 




Fig. 4 



HONING 



ffZ ™l "' Th f Ule WOtk ' a , SPeCial trai,,jng ' S neet,ed a,S °- PrCparat0r >- t0 «**« the art 
1 1 ot honing. The exercises m honing, must he practiced at intervals with ... «M ? 

aing to hone a razoV, first discover \vl at h neiTp" S ^1^ J "' *" *" begin ' 

-r, honi„ g would not do i„ tbis case. Z £ ck ^ fi«t b U^ou" Tb ^ , 0nU - 

^s^^trs r n ° * si,rc about ^ ^stAssts 

across the moistened nai I le \ Tr *■ *? f^ Md drawi °« the ed « e of ■* «« 



advise you to use the thumb or finger nail in order to discover these defects. These metal are taken 
^"standing the razor almost perpendicularly upon the hone and operating it in hat positio 
Tust where the nicks are should be the only part of the razor to come in contact with the hone. In 
Sis way the nicks are removed in much less time than by the old way of laying the blade flat upon 
the hone and honing an hour or more. . 

Now as to honing razors for service. Figs. 3 and 4 represent the two important poa.t.ons in 
honing when the hone rests upon a table, bench or whatever may be used. Figure 3 represen s he 
first stroke towards you. The razor has been turned upon its back, and Fig. 4 "ow represents the 
sec nd stroke in honing. This is to be kept up until the razor is perfectly sharp. From the beginmng 
of this exercise, moisten the thumb or finger nail frequently and draw the edge of the razor across it 
lightly. At first it may seem rough, but as you go farther on with the intelligence that Figs 3 and 4 
afford yon will notice that the edge is becoming smoother and that it begins to adhere to he mo st- 
ened finger nail. Carry it all the way from the heel to the point, over the nail and you will observe 
the edge as it is coming on and can tell what part of the blade needs the most honing. As this pro 
cess is kept up, the blade sticks the tighter to the nail, which is firm enough to tell you when the 
edge is sharp, or nicked or rough. So, when the razor adheres from heel to point, it is in ^very fine 
condition, and is technically called a " well honed razor." In Fig. 3, the edge » drawn toward 
you in Fig. 4 the edge goes from you. In this position unusual care should be used as it is not as 
handy to apply the razor to the hone in this stroke as in the stroke that applies it to the hone in Fig. 
3 consequently the stroke shown in Fig. 4. often goes its route without cutting away a particle of 
the material of the side of the razor for which this stroke is intended, and but one side is honed and 






STROPPING 



♦#!/% OW, after razors are honed the nevt riiim, .c n, 
[hi three in number, the canvas and^ vo T ""T", • "* *"*■ *"** "* USUa »>- 

l- k of' the Wade £Tnt forc a „1 ^f^ Utlh f^ whole strop in this stroke. The 
stropping t he razor is ...an.pnJ „ uJ ^T^ t S ^ ^^ * ** ' In 
comes to and .he back fjoes from- in hoSL?iT^ , ' M h ° mngJ the baek of tbe hIa ^. 

Strops shonld always £ , '„ t £ ^ ° ** ^f, « <° «■* the edge goes fron, 

a ball of beeswax and rub i thorou " , ^^£°^ t ^ 7** """*"■ ^ 

gni) upon this strop, fiUmg its pores and polishing off with the 



back of a razor or any smooth article of metal and it is readv for use. Occasionally apply lathe 
with brush and scrape with back of shears. Other strops should have oil occasionally and a small 
amount of beeswax. These finer strops should be cleaned quite often and kept in good order Dur- 
ing the operation of shaving the process of stropping should he kept up, for, as a general thing, 
barbers do not strop their razors often enough. Then again, one or two strokes are msufficient for 
razors in constant service. 






Fig. 5 



Fig 6 




Fig 7 




SHAVING 



cause in Shaving, FiV. 6 shows the „ P vt ™v.H 11 ' " ° rder to fur ^er the 

s. 5. umiuw!, tne next position real v necessarv HWf> u n „„ tt,„. u 

^up^r^r^^rr^ setter are - 

as possible, hut let the wrist move with ,,« .1 1 •. T S ' he arm be as ste ady 

* *». rare „„ e , „, , he case „. hlch F ig .fi repre ,.„ tsyo „„,,rj:/; h :^:^ rb ™^ 



13 



shaved around to the middle of the chin. This is very essential, for if it be not shaved fully halt 
way when coming around from the opposite side, as is shown in figure 10, one would be very apt to 
cut the subject's face. Here is where the work must meet evenly from both sides of the face. Any 
other way would fail to accomplish the desired result. Shave with the grain, or the way the beard 
grows as much as possible. This is the best way for shaving the first time off; but after that for 
close shaving, shave against and across the grain as the case suggests itself tor the safety and com- 
fort of the patron. . . 

Fig 7 shows just how far down on the neck one should shave and no farther; for in ninety- 
nine cases out of one hundred, the beard runs down only just so far as is shown in Fig. 7. Shaving 
down as is shown is necessary, for it is best to shave with the beard or with the gram the first time 
over Fig 8 is the fourth position. It is the safest and best It calls for more time in stepping 
around the chair than any other in executing this part of the work, that of shaving up w.tn the 
beard as it grows on the neck. In reference to the third position, should one shave all the way 
down the neck, the result would be a very sore neck, badly broken out and covered with pimples. So 
it becomes necessary to resort to the aid of the fourth position. Although many barbers have 
adopted the overhand, upward stroke as is shown in Fig. 17, fourth position m close shaving, in 
order to save the time it requires to step around the chair, but it is not a sale thing to do. This 
position Fig 17, is only a relative position in close shaving. Fig. g requires the face to be turned 
toward you and the backhanded forward movement continued, an exact repetition of the holding of 
the razor as is seen in Fig. 6, and shows just how far one can execute the work while remaining in 



14 




F'g 9 




Fig 10 




Fig. il 




Fig 12 



position . r . The black which represents the lather upon the face of the subject continues to diminish 
and outlines the work in the manner in which all shaving as a profession should be done. So you 
may observe from Fig. 10, that the work has been extended to the chin of the subject and is united 
with the work already executed in the first four positions, omitting the 9th. Observe, during the 
process of shaving, in all the various positions how the razor is held in the hand. It is necessary to 
know this and highly necessary to practice it until it is perfected, if barbering is to be your avocation. 

Fig. 11 shows just how far to shave down on the neck. It is the same intent as Fig. 7, only 
on the opposite side of the face and backhanded shaving just as far as the beard grows down the neck. 
Fig. 12 dispenses with the lather save what little remains upon the upper lip as is shown in Fig. 13. 
Fig. 12 represents shaving upwards on the neck. This includes the first nine important positions in 
shaving the first time over. Fig. 10 has, in some instances, a minor position in uniting the work of 
the two sides of the face at the chin in shaving the first time over. That position is when the work 
has been united at the chin. Underneath it should be shaved by whatever position you may desire 
or by raising the chin of the subject and using the heel of the razor generally. Fig. 13 represents 
shaving the upper lip, backhanded strokes. 

These nine positions will remove the beard of any one who has to be shaved and in many 
cases are perfectly satisfactory to him who wants to be shaved only once over, but does not answer 
for all, so, having given the facts upon the subject of shaving for the first time over, we shall call at- 
tention to our next which includes close shaving. 



15 



CLOSE SHAVING 

Fifteen of the best and most important positions in close shaving are here described. Immedi- 
ately after the subject has been shaved over the first time, rinse the face well with water in order to 
clear away all the soap from the face, so that it may not smart when the second operation in close 

shaving begins. 

In case of close shaving, have a piece of alum in the hand, moisten the hand and take hold of 
the alum. This prevents the hands slipping. Lose as little time as possible a*ter rinsing the face, 
for the beard soon dries and becomes hard again. 

In order to avoid this, Fig. 14 shows the barber at work upon the side of the face that was 
first shaved. This is a very important position. Shave while the beard is soft, always carrying as 
much water as possible on the face during the entire process of close shaving, or after the lather has 
been washed off. This water keeps the razor from burning the face and causing it to smart, as, in 
some cases, happens even when the shaving was done in some of the best shops and by 
some of the best artists in the land. Often times barbers set a man's face on fire, comparatively speak- 
ing by lathering one side and shaving it and leaving the other side bare, then lathering the bare side 
and immediately shaving it. In no case of this kind can one make time in shaving or give comfort 
to your patron, for beards cannot, as a general rule, be put in condition in so little time as this process 
of shaving requires, so it is best at all times to lather the whole face, unless one calls for a dry shave 

16 





Fig. 13 



Fig 14 




Fig 16 



which is done by softening the beard with warm water and not using any lather at all, continuing to 
use warm water through the whole process. 

While shaving let the razor blada lie almost flit on the faca. It cuts much better, for in most 
cases or with a great many barbers, the razor stands up at much too great an angle, possibly fifteen 
degrees. It seems reasonable to say that in such a position it is scraping and not shaving. 

Fig. 15 is a relative position to Fig. 14, tightening the skin of the face as you will observe from 
left hand of barber at work in this position, tightening the skin of the face being very essential in all 
forms of shaving and one should not become neglectful in this. 



WATER IN SHAVING 

One important practice — always use as great an amount of water as it is possible to use com- 
fortably. In Fig. 15 the barber is shaving upward under the chin and on the neck and in cases wher e 
beards grow round in a circle under the chin as beards often do, a form of shaving called "rolling the 
flesh" as seen in Fig. 20 is the best to adopt when working in position 15 or any other position in 
which it may be adopted. By this way of shaving, the subject can be treated without injury- 
Fig. 16 illustrates shaving nearest side of face with backhanded strokes and wrist movement, 
arm steady. Fig. 17 is a relative position used often in shaving the first time over doing same work 

17 



as bio- 8 The position of the left hand, Fig. (8 shows spreading the face, with the forward stroke of 
the razor which is held in a slanting position. This slanting position which covers all styles of shav- 
ing can be used to advantage more, frequently than any other position in the entire work The 
spreading of the skinand the slanting of tfie razor, when in service are two very important actors 
in the execution of good shaving Fig. 19 is used only in close shaving and is an overhand, amDldex. 
terous stroke and is the only stroke that can successfully take away all the heard from along the jaw- 
bone of the lace, which gives comfort to so many who desire close shaving. Tins amb.dexterou, 
stroke is the one in which the whole arm movement is brought into play, and should he practiced a 
great deal as it is very difficult to master, but can be mastered and will become as easy as any other 
stroke in barbering. In this position one may plainly see how the ra/.or is to be held in the hand when 
shaving the handle passing between the little finger and the one next to it and between the thumb 
and forefinger. This is the correct way. Again if may be seen in Fig. .7. Note the iacts for they 
are of untold value to him who follows barbering as an avocation. One may become weary of the 
many positions I give in high class barbering, and the talk that becomes necessary to unfold to you 
t he Secret of Barbering; but nevertheless that does not detract anything from the value ot this wo 1K . 
So I shall continue with the remaining nine positions, the first of which is Fig. 20. This figure is used 
in very close shaving and is called V rolling the flesh." In this manner of mampulatmg the face, 
the beard is forced out from its cells and can be cut off without pain, as close as is possible to have it 
cut and when plenty of water is used, faces are kept in good condition and the work is generally sat- 
isfactory. Some faces will not stand this method of close shaving. You may know this by the ap- 



18 







Fig ,8 




Fig. 19 



pearance of little red blotches, or white pimples a day or so after shaving. The following two Figs 
21 and 22 come under the head of very close shaving. This process is called "kneading the face." 
In Fig. 21 in very close shaving the skin is drawn out and over the four fingers which are under- 
neath the folds of the skin and out of view. These four fingers are pushing the skin up and 
crowding out the beard, and the thumb, all of which may be seen, is drawing the upper surface to a 
level so that the razor may pass over and do the work for which this position calls. A great many 
men can never feel comfortable after shaving because they can, when shaved feel beard along under 
the neck as Fig. 21 shows and is above mentioned. Fig. 21 is "kneading the face;" so is Fig. 22. 
There cannot be a vestige of beard left upon the face or neck when one resorts to the method of close 
shaving as represented by Fig. 22, a form of kneading the face that stands by itself alone in this 
case as represented by Fig. 22. Tbe thumb and forefinger spread the face or neck and the three fin- 
gers are underneath as the skin is drawn, working the beard out that is too deep seated to be 
caught any other way. 

Fig. 23 is the position in shaving the upper lip, drawing the razor toward you, Fig. 24, shav- 
ing the lip also with backhanded strokes, shaving from. Fig. 25 in very close shaving shows tha* 
but very little of the razor blade can be seen for the reason that the thumb has been moved down the 
blade almost to the end of it. No one knows but those who follow this style of shaving, the comfort 
it gives to the subject being shaved and with what grace and ease the beards can be amputated by 
holding the razor in this manner. This manner of holding the razor is highly recommended and can 
be adopted in many a position in shaving. All work in close shaving is usually against the grain or 

'9 



across it. This system of close shaving is useful to persons who have shaved for many years, rather 
than beneficial to younger men, and persons who know not the results from years of steady shaving. 
In rare cases and generally with elderly men, close shaving may be carried down on the neck, shaving 
also againgl the strain or against the beard or across the beard until the neck is perfectly clean of any 
beard at all, without doing harm but not often is this the case. 

Fig. 26, in close shaving, illustrates pinching up the face. Tightening, another form of 
kneading the face, is useful and should be practiced. Fig. 27 illustrates kneading the face. This 

is imi alone, the jawbone but under the neck, where men who shave close like to have this part of 
the work done well. The thumb is underneath in this case, pushing the beard out of the cells, while 
the razor passes over it and severs it so deeply that when the skin is relaxed there can not be left a 
particle of beard. Fig. 28 completes the work. Here the barber shaves downward and not a vest- 
ige of beard remains. These fifteen positions include what is called "rolling the flesh" and "kneading 
the face," both of which give comfort to your patrons and are soothing and refreshing. These fif- 
teen positions are indeed the most beautiful ones in shaving, to him who has patience to work theni 
out. There should be plenty of time allowed in which to shave one, unless a quick shave is desired 
by the patron, or some other cause prevents the barber from tarrving long with his customer. Plenty 
of time in most cases gives comfort, anil general satisfaction to the patrons. Therefore it endears 
them to your place of business; whereas a great many leave a shop never to return because of so 
little time given in shaving. 

Having said enough along the line of shaving, and knowing that what facts the Secret of Bar- 




Fig 20 



FlCT. 21 




Fig. 22 




Fig. 23 



bering fails to give, your own practical experience will impart, as these already given are the most 
important, we therefore conclude shaving and call attention to hair cutting. 



HAIR CUTTING 

^Y^ HI - nrst stylt- is represented by Fig. 29. This and the remaining three figures — 30 
II 31 and 32 — are high class society work, and known as swell-hair cutting. The designs for 

swell hair cutting run as follows: Quarter moon, half moon and full moon, all of which 
represent the moon's phases. 

Fig. 29 represents a quarter moon in temple work as a swell finish in high class barbering and 
is very beautiful and much preferred by main- to any other style in swell hair cutting. This cut 
extends only half way around the temple, or about half as far as 30' s work shows. Fig. 30 repre- 
sents a half moon in temple work as a swell finish in high class barbering and is very much to be 
admired as it is becoming in many cases, and most especially for persons who have full growth over 
the temples, but can not be used in all cases of hair cutting because, as before intimated, all temples 
have not a full enough growth of hair for the line of survey which this half moon is designed to 
show. Square-cut temple work and pointed temple work, or any other style of temple finish one may 

21 



e 



adopt, does not belong in the category of swell hair-cutting and are not rated as high class society 
work, but decidedly inferior to it. Therefore, Figs. 29 and 30 are th n most important of all th« 
designs in temple work. Fig. 31 shows a full moon cut and is paramount to all other styles of cut 
ting the hair, and can be used to a great advantage in any style of hair cutting, and "should be 
generally adopted. In the case of a good full moon the hair is combed down over the forehead and 
cut off as much on one side as the other. The line of survey should begin, say at the left high 
temple, as the cut shows, and extend down in a circle to the eyes and across and upon the right high 
temple in just as even proportions as is possible for it to be. Then let the hair be combed out often 
and ends cut where irregular in order that this work, the full moon, may be true, neither side left 
longer than the other. In this way the hair never bothers one by getting down in his eyes and can 
be parted in the middle or on either side with the best possible results. In these styles of hair cut- 
ting I deem it wise to mention this fact, that the hair must be allowed to grow out full all over the 
head, then when cutting the hair you may give the head the desired shape as shown in Fig. 32. 
This is a puff cut, full moon, back and front, quarter moon, temples. You nun- be able to satisfy in 
a reasonable measure your trade with mechanical hair cutting and with mechanical shaving, but they 
will be much better satisfied with artistic hair cutting .ml artistic shaving. Therefore, be it 
remembered that in these styles of swell hair cutting, the hair must not be cut off too high up the 
back of the head, as the head then loses its shape, but must be left long so as to come entirely down 
over the mole of the head, the work all being done at the base of the head, and around the sides 
never cutting the hair close enough for the scalp to show through, for where the scalp is shown that 
kind of work comes under the head of "tight hair cutting." Then we readily discover that we have 

L.ofC. 22 



two systems o ha,r cutting, namely "tight" hair cutting, and "long- hair cutting of which the 
designs ,,, swell society work as represented by cuts or Figs. 2Q , 30, 31, .2 gove'^l em " For 
Fig. 3= there are other designs for finishing the neck which are not h rein il fasTrateT Theva« 
mentioned, as styles for finishing the neck. fa the following order, "round " wh^ means a fu 

^>>2^ l V ig - 3 :; " Ion ! branch/ ' whlch is sh - in ^ d ™ *'*£ $£ZZ 

square, u bicb ,s shaping the neck square! v across. The clippers are usuallv used on the neck in 

the case of shaping the neck -long branch" style, in order that the line of survey on either si le 

houd be brought out evenly and without ragged edges. And in al, cases of shaping he neS and 

perfectly clear, for which this line is most available. 

Fig. 33 and the following Figs. 34, 35 and 36 are representing work of a high order in 
Pompadour ha. cutting, which in tins case is "tight" hair cutting. The clipped, of what ev 
length may be desired, are used on the back and sides of the head, as may be seen in Fi„ ,^Z 

on the temples as all clipper work should be done, fa order that the work may be ystemftic and al^ 
correspondnig with the tightness of the clippers which the head will show; the clippers bing thl 
first step taken ,„ this style of hair cutting; the next is Fig. 33: the hair should be combed out 

;To7 he 1 : ,r itz th : i iap 7 f a m — - — - **■ »»■ °* * * *£££ z 

eageot the scalp. Notice the line drawn across the forehead of Fig. „. All the hair cut aw.v 
would leave the forehead bare, its appearance then would be nnbeconffagf bu next J^L L £2 
hat remains so as ,t may stand up we,,, and then take position behnuUhe chair as se n F I 
and after having combed it all up, begin where the clippers left off and work forward with the comb 



23 



always combing toward you. Cut the hair down about the length you desire the pompadour and 
comb it down again, and move forward to the front and begin to comb u P again, at the same tune 
Shingle off the front, which, when done just right, makes a beautiful oval shaped pompadour cut, as 
seen in Fig «. Not square at all, but oval in shape, which is proper. Then by joining the clipper 
work and that of the shears, as is shown by Fig ,.5. in tins case the barber is joining the work to- 
gether, a very tedious task and one that requires a great deal of attention before the work is made 

Fie ^ shows the barber taking observations of the way the hair lies; in looking this way the 
slightest defect can be plainly seen and taken out. Fig. 34, the barber combs and brushes up the 
pompadour, and his work is finished, as the workmanship is oval in shape and uniform in style and 
is the only shape for up-to-date pompadour hair cutting, as shown m Fig. 34. 



TIGHT HAIR CUTTING. 

The Secret of Bartering will now introduce to you its last style of hair cutting which comes 
under the form of "tight" hair cutting and is known as a "crown cut." This style is very suitable 
for boys, mill men, factory men, coal miners, railroad men or those engaged m any work in which 
the head sets dirty very quickly. With this cut the head can be kept clean with much less effort 
than with any other style excepting the pompadour. 



^r 



& 





Fig. 24 



ig 25 




Ig. ?c 



F 'g 27 





Fig. 28 



Fig. 29 




Fipr 3o 




Fig. 31 




Fig. 32 




F 'g- 33 




Fig. 34 




F 'g- 35 



Fig. 37 and Fig. 38 show the work as it is being executed in crown hair cutting. Fig. 37 
shows the foretop for boys, the design is a full moon. In this cut you may notice that the hair is 
cut shorter for boys than for men; for boys the full moon comes about half way down the forehead, 
for men it should come down to the eyes, or near it. as shown in Fig. 31. Fig. 38 shows that the 
particular and all important feature in "tight" hair cutting is being executed, that of joining together 
perfectly the work of the clippers and that of the shears. 



MISCELLANEOUS BARBERING. 

Avoid using rotten soaps on faces. The cause of soaps softening in the mug, or rotting, is 
that the general way of many workmen is to place a new cake of soap on top of one nearly used up 
in the mug. This lets the water in under the whole business and it will decay in a few days — if shop 
is kept warm, will sour. This should not be done but remnants of cake of soap should be taken ou 
of mug and mug washed and dried, and the new cake beaten out, if too small, so as to fit the mug and 
placed in perfectly dry and the remnant on the top of it. All the soap is used then, none wasted and 
always in good condition. 

Clean towels, clean shop and clean self and pleasing attitude are criticisms that should govern 
if success is anticipated. 

When trimming beards almost any style clippers can be used on the neck in order to makct 

a neat job. 

25 



CURLING THE MUSTACHE. 

The best way is to use tissue paper and roll the mustache around it just as you would wrap a 
string around a match. When tight enough plait the end of the paper and let it stand awhile, if 
crimpers are preferred don't have them too hot, that breaks the hairs off. 

Shampooing the head once every week or oftener, has a great tendency to increase dandruff, 
therefore abstain from so much shampooing. It takes away too much of the natural oil of the hair. 
In cases where it becomes necessary to shampoo very often quite a deal of oil or vasaline should be 
used afterwards. Egg shampooing is the best. Break whole egg into a cup or small bowl; to this 
add a small amount of bay rum, a little witch-hazel and Florida water; to this add enough shampoo so as 
to make a good lather and beat all together. Beat it well, then saturate the hair and scalp, thoroughly 
rubbing the head with a rough brush used for that purpose, then rinse. A dry shampoo is one 
given in the chair without putting the customer's head under the water spout. Rinse the head well 
with towels until all is clean, just as he sits in the barber chair. There are many who do not like 
the water spout. 

Razors should not have thorough honing oftener than once a week; if they do not hold up well 
have the hone handy and in a moment's time, to and fro across the hone, the edge will come on per- 
fectly. After the face is lathered, in this way the edge can be put properly on the razor before the 
lather dries, and by touching it up as aforesaid one razor may be made to execute for one whole week 
the heaviest work appertaining to barbering. 

26 




Fig. 36 




Fig- 37 




Fig 38 



When stropping in this oblique pasition of the razor upon the strop, care should be used or 
the razor may be held too perpendicular. Strokes in this manner would round the edge and prevent 
its use at all. 

When shaving practice as light a hand as possible, never holding a firm grip upon the razor 
— this is a detriment. Barely hold it and no more. 

Arguments should not be indulged in, and when they arise in the shop decide with the cus. 
tomer as often as possible, even if he be wrong. 

When softening the beards for shaving rub the lather into them briskly but do not bear too 
hard upon the face, as this will largely dispense with the comfort that belongs with good shaving. 

Razors that are good should have rest occasionally, this enhances their longevity. 

Do not accept pay for your labor and then refuse to compensate others for their services. 

When cutting hair, it should be cut so evenly all over the entire bead, that no defects can be 
seen at all. Usually even- stroke of the shears can be seen in the hair that is cut after the manner 
of some workmen, which shows the inability of that workman to execute first class work. Be true 
workmen. The most excellent workmen are the most needed. 



27 



CONCLUSION. 

Having given you the facts in hair cutting, shaving, honing and stropping, as they came to 
me during fifteen years of ardent study and from practical experience, my oblations I now render 
you through the columns of this little book. The Secret of Barbering will conclude with the follow- 
ing advice: 

Who loves his trade with all his heart 

Has learned one secret of the art, 
The Key is here in black and white — 
The Key that opes the door to light, 
The Key that turns the lock of fame: 
On her fair tablet write your name. 

Your well wisher, 

B. W. BOOKER. 



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